Lindfield History pages

How Lindfield began

By Richard Bryant, Lindfield History Project Group

Previous articles have focused on people and building in recent centuries relative to Lindfield’s long history. This article explores the early history of the area and how Lindfield as we know it today came about.

The first recorded reference to Lindfield is in a Saxon charter dated 765, but what was happening here before that date? Unfortunately the archaeological record is rather sparse, but thanks to a survey prior to Barratt’s building The Limes, on farmland previously Luxford Farm, two important discoveries were made. Pieces of Bronze Age pottery were unearthed, indicating people were in the area some 3,000 years ago. It is most likely to have been the site of a seasonal camp, rather than a permanent dwelling site.

At that time and through the Iron Age (600BC – 50BC) and into the Roman period the area, in common with much of the lowland Weald, would have been wooded and criss-crossed with tracks. The High Street is believed to follows the line of an ancient north-south route that existed in the Iron Age. On land at Birchen Lane, an iron-smelting furnace of mid Iron Age date has been discovered, indicating exploitation of local resources.

Although there was no known Roman presence, the area was not isolated as a Roman road running from London towards the coast passed about a mile to the west, crossing land now Harlands Primary School. Two other Roman roads were only a few miles away. Local tracks connected with these roads. Some settlement, either seasonal or permanent, must have taken place during the Roman period, as the well respected historical geographer, Dr Peter Brandon, says that by the end of the Roman occupation the woodland on the Wealden margins, such as around Lindfield, had been cleared by the Romano-British villa economy and peasant grazing to create wooded pasture. These pastures, used primarily for cattle and also seasonal grazing of pigs, known as pannage, led to the creation of small and scattered communities.

This is supported by the second archaeological discovery made on The Limes site. Very old field ditches, that existed long before the field pattern of Luxford Farm, were uncovered, with one containing early Saxon pottery (circa 650) in the bottom. Evidence that land in Lindfield was being farmed.

The manorial system of landholding developed during Saxon times. In this part of Sussex the manorial centre was usually based on fertile arable land close to the coast, with outlying lands extending northwards. This is why if you look at an Ordnance Survey map of Sussex there are more roads running south to north than east – west. Several manors could hold land within the same area; thus in and around Lindfield manors with land included Stanmer, with the largest holding, Ditchling, Framfield, Plumpton Boscage, and Street. Each exercised control over their land through their own manorial courts, called Court Baron.

Returning to the Saxon charter of 765 mentioned earlier, this evidenced the granting of lands by Aeldwulf, one of the last kings of the South Saxons, to his earl, Hunlabe, for him to build and endow a minster church. These lands formed the Manor of Stanmer, comprised of separate parcels of land mainly in a line stretching from Stanmer north to Crawley Down, basically along the line of today’s B2112, with by far the largest parcel being in the centre at Lindfield. In the charter, Lindfield, meaning open land with lime trees, along with Walstead and Henfield (Scaynes Hill) were described as pig pastures.

There is much to support the belief that the minster church, which would have been a small and simple building, was built in Lindfield and that All Saints stands on the site. This indicates the area had a settled population of sufficient size to warrant building a church. The manor and church were held by the secular Canons of St Michael, South Malling. Sometime between 765 and Domesday, the manor passed to the ownership of the Archbishop of Canterbury but remained within the canon’s control. In 1150, Archbishop Theobald reorganised his Sussex peculiars, promoting St Michaels to a ‘College of Canons’ with a structure comprising a dean and three canons, respectively the chancellor, treasurer and precentor. The dean, an important and influential position, was the Rector of the Parish of Lindfield and together with the canons held sub manors in Lindfield from which they received an income. The dean was required to reside in Lindfield for 90 days a year and the canons 40 days. The Bower House was the dean’s residence.

The canons’, and especially the dean’s, influence on Lindfield was considerable, as collectively they were the ‘lords of the manor’. It was very much in their interest to ensure that those parts of the parish within their manorial holding, which included virtually all of Lindfield town, prospered. They were responsible for the growth and layout of properties down the main street, the extent of the town in medieval times. There were fields immediately behind the houses. Recognising Lindfield as an important and thriving community, King Edward III in 1343 granted a charter for two fairs on the feast days of St Philip and St James (both 1st May) and St James the Great (25th July), each lasting eight days, and a weekly market was held.

The Tiger

The five high status medieval houses built by the canons in the 14th and early 15th century, namely Bower House, The Tiger, Thatcher Cottage, Church Cottage and Clock House survive today. The width and line of today’s High Street has remained unchanged since that time. The street, from church to the Lewes Road junction, was lined with houses and workshops. The other timber-framed houses built in the 14th to the 16th century that still line the High Street underline the prosperity of Lindfield under the canons. This prosperity was primarily based on farming, the cloth trade and iron working. Our large and impressive parish church, dating mainly from the 14th century, in the perpendicular style, bears witness to its importance and the canons’ influence.

The 1530s and 1540s, with Henry VIII on the throne and seeking a divorce, the English Reformation and the establishment of the Church of England leading to the dissolution of religious houses, brought far reaching change to the country. Lindfield, with a population of about 400, having the College of Canons as lords of the manor was heading for a major change in its fortunes.

In March 1545, an order for the dissolution of the College of Canons was issued and subsequently all possessions, tithes and lands were granted by the Crown to Sir Thomas Palmer, a gentleman of the Privy Council. Over the next 300 years importance and prosperity gradually ebbed away. But Lindfield after the Reformation is another chapter in its long history.

First published December 2017 in Lindfield Life.


Who lived in that house? - Finches

By Richard Bryant, Lindfield History Project Group

The name Finches as in Finches Park Road, Finches Gardens and Finches Lane does not derive from a Victorian country mansion, like The Welkin as featured in last month’s article. It is much older in origin dating back to a farm that existed in medieval times, with perhaps the land being farmed a thousand years ago.

Finches Farm has appeared in the historic record since the 16th century when it was occupied by the Fairhall family, and its land ran southwards from Finches Lane. In 1583 Richard Fairhall was described as one of the ‘chiefest men’ of Lindfield. The farm must have been of sufficient importance as in 1723 it was one of the four properties in Lindfield parish shown by name on Budgen’s Sussex map. Described in 1829 as a ‘Messuage, barns and lands called Finches, Tilts and Cocks containing 32 acres’ it was held by Jane Knight. A Mr Riddle subsequently farmed the land, as a tenant of Edward Duke, and is recorded as operating a brickyard in the area of Kiln Wood and Town Wood; both woods still remain.

Around 1870 the farm was bought by James Proctor, a retired silk manufacturer from Manchester. He demolished the farmhouse and buildings that stood on the west side of Finches Lane, approximately where Arthur Bliss House is today. In their place he built a country mansion of brick and stone. An impression of the grandness and architectural style can be seen in the imposing range of estate office, coach house and stables he built further up Finches Lane; now attractive residences. To complete the estate, lodges were placed at the southern and northern end of Finches Lane, again both survive (see then/now photos here). The lower section of Finches Gardens follows the line of the drive.

Following his death in 1884 the estate was sold for £17,000 to Walter Savill. Finches became the main family home for Walter, his wife Matilda and their ten children. By the time of his death in 1911, most of their children had grown up and moved away, leaving the house to be lived in by his widow and their unmarried daughter Maud. They maintained it as their main residence until the beginning of WWII when it was requisitioned by the Army for officer accommodation.

Mrs Matilda Savill died in 1941. At the end of the war the house was returned to Maud Savill and in 1946 the entire estate was put up for sale. Sale particulars described the house as containing 12 principal bedrooms, seven staff bedrooms, five bathrooms, four reception rooms and
domestic offices, plus garages and stabling set in 45 acres of gardens and parkland. Also in the sale were the two lodges and four modern semi detached cottages, built for estate workers in Sunte Avenue.

The house with its grounds were acquired and converted into the County Hotel, opening in November 1947. It provided accommodation for 80 guests with a ‘Tudor Lounge and Buttery’ and ‘Georgian Restaurant’. Dinner dances were held on Saturday nights, which proved popular with guests and local residents alike.

As Lindfield started a major period of expansion in the decades following WWII there was considerable demand for building land. Between 1955 and 1961 parcels of Finches land were sold for building. This resulted in the first sections of Savill Road, Finches Park Road and the adjoining section of Hickmans Lane being built.

The hotel closed and was demolished in the early 1960s, with all remaining land being sold and built upon as we see today.

Today it is the Savills who are most closely associated with Finches. Who were they and what was their impact on Lindfield?

Walter Savill aged 15 joined Wallis Gann & Co, a firm of London shipbrokers, as a junior clerk in 1851. Seven years later together with a fellow employee, Robert Shaw, he left Wallis Gann and as partners set up their own shipping business, Shaw Savill & Co. Initially using chartered ships they specialised in carrying cargo, emigrants and Government mail to New Zealand. Through great courage, persistence, hard work and shrewdness the business prospered, owning 15 ships in 1865. It merged in 1882 with Albion, a competitor on the New Zealand route, to form Shaw Savill & Albion Co Ltd. In that year one of their ships carried the first refrigerated cargo of New Zealand lamb to Britain. Following this merger, Walter Savill established a fleet of sailing vessels under the Shaw Savill flag; one of these ships, a four mast steel barque, he named ‘Lindfield’.

Despite having lived in Lindfield for 27 years, Walter Savill took no active part in local affairs. He died aged 76 at Finches in May 1911, leaving over £1.5m, a vast fortune in those days. Early on the morning of the funeral, his oak coffin was conveyed to the parish church in an ivy- clad farm wagon drawn by three horses. After the service ‘the body rested in the church until the afternoon’ to allow ‘persons in all positions of life’ to pay their respects before being taken to Walstead for burial.

In contrast, his daughter Maud Savill, who lived in Lindfield until her death in 1962 aged 96, was an active participant and major benefactor in the village. She was at the forefront of supporting and giving to very many charitable good causes. For example, during the Great War Maud gave generously to the Red Cross Hospital in the King Edward Hall and funded the building of the miniature rifle range in Alma Lane. Throughout her life Maud Savill was a prominent member of the All Saints’ congregation.

Particularly noteworthy was her preservation of buildings that to this day enhance the High Street. Firstly, in 1917 she purchased dilapidated Barnlands with its two shops and restored it as two dwellings. Similarly in 1930, she purchased the ‘department store’ latterly run by Mr & Mrs Funnell converting it to housing and restored the adjoining cottage, today Truffle House, Caldicote and Limes Cottage. Priory Cottage followed in 1935, Maud Savill removed the shop extension that reached the pavement and restored it to solely residential purposes. Three years later she bought and renovated the Sewell Memorial Hall and St John’s Lodge, living in the latter during the war years before moving to St Lawrence on Blackhill.

After WWII, land in Hickmans Lane was given to the District Council for the building of the 12 semi-detached ‘St John’s Cottages’ for men who served in WWII and their families. It is Maud Savill that residents have to thank for also providing land to the District Council that subsequently became the Hickmans Lane Recreation Ground.

Whilst Finches has long disappeared, Maud Savill’s work to preserve and improve High Street properties, together with her kindness in facilitating a much enjoyed sports field and playground, are a commendable legacy.

First published in November 2017 of Lindfield Life.